Another Speccie scoop: the first place to buy the new 2016 Chateau Musar

Readers (and writers) of The Spectator have long adored the wines of Château Musar, the cult winery of Lebanon. Indeed, thanks to our chums at Mr Wheeler, we have such a close relationship with the estate that our loyalty is being rewarded by yet another bona fide Speccie scoop: for the next month, this is the only place in the UK from which to buy the newly released 2016 Château Musar. This great wine is simply not available anywhere else currently and once it goes, it goes. So get cracking and don’t say I didn’t warn you.

There are other treats in this Musar offer too, including two remarkable back vintages, and in tasting them on your behalf I was joined by Michael Karam, author of Wines of Lebanon and occasional contributor to this magazine on Middle Eastern politics.

The 2016 Château Musar White (1) is an extraordinary wine. An oak-fermented blend of two indigenous varieties — Obaideh and Merwah — it’s likened by some to a mature dry white Bordeaux and by others to a Manzanilla. I reckon it could pass for old white Rhône and Mike thinks for old white Rioja. The truth is that it’s not like anything else at all. Yes, there’s that oxidative character, so typical of Musar, but there are also notes of honey, nuts, cream and citrus. It’s rich but dry and I’ll be frank: you might not like it. But if, like Mike and me, you do, you’ll absolutely lap it up. £27 down from £28.45.

The 2020 Musar Jeune Red (2) is the estate’s entry-level red, designed for instant carefree quaffing. An unoaked blend of Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s fresh, it’s fruity and it’s instantly appealing. It’s not dissimilar to a classy Côtes du Rhône, with its herbs, spice and jam, and it’s eminently drinkable. £12.25 down from £13.45.

A blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon from a single vineyard in the western Bekaa Valley, the 2019 Hochar Pere et Fils Red (3) is a distinct step up from the Musar Jeune. As Mike says, it has the DNA of the grand vin and is akin to fine Châteauneuf-du-Pape in its complexity, with delicious cherry notes flooding out from the Cinsault. Drink now or keep. £16.50 down from £17.95.

And so to the brand new 2016 Château Musar (4), on which Spectator readers have first dibs for four weeks. With crushed wild strawberries, a heady scent and beautifully balanced tannins and acid, it’s hugely impressive. ‘It might still be a baby, but it has such character and soul,’ exclaimed Mike. There’s freshness and there’s sweetness and there’s a touch of savouriness, too, and it’s going to age beautifully. £30 down from £31.95.

The 2000 Château Musar (5) had us both purring with pleasure. With soft, ripe, fresh, sweet fruit — think redcurrants and cherries — and hints of orange peel, it’s in stunning form. Mike became quite misty-eyed as he surveyed his glass, instantly transported back to his homeland. ‘Oh goodness,’ he said. ‘This is what Musar is all about, it’s absolutely singing!’ I second that. £32 down from £33.95.

Finally, the 1998 Château Musar (6) from one of the lightest of vintages and as pale a red as I’ve ever seen. There’s that instant hit of sweet, ripe Musar fruit backed by notes of spice and vanilla with something savoury, earthy to the finish. Although fully mature, there’s still life in it yet and if you’re a fan of Musar it will intrigue and delight you. £32 down from £33.95.

There are two mixed cases: the Musar Collection with two bottles each of wines 1-6 and the Musar Vintage Experience with four bottles each of wines 4-6. Delivery, as ever, is free.