Neckerchiefs are a sartorial risk worth taking

Neckerchiefs are an oddity. Once the cowboys' sweat-wiping tool, they are now a key accessory in the glamour – or camp and borderline tack – of a flight attendant’s uniform. My approach to them tends to sit somewhere in the middle. Neckerchiefs are useful, stylish, rebellious, but comforting – a rare choice for men’s fashionwear. A neckerchief can spice up a dull-coloured shirt without imprisoning your neck in a collar choked by its distant relative, the tie.

But before becoming the fabric embodiment of smart-casual, the neckerchief was wholly utilitarian. Sailors began wearing them in the 16th century to combat the discomfort caused by dripping sweat rubbing against their stiff-collared shirts. Scouts found the accessory doubled up well as a bandage or a sling in first-aid emergencies. Above all, the neckerchief provided protection from the blazing sun. For many outdoor workers, from farmers to construction workers to cowboys, a hat alone left the neck exposed. It is where the term ‘redneck’ originated from in the 19th century — to describe the poor American population in rural districts, identifiable by their sunburnt necks.

The beauty of adding the neckerchief to modern menswear is its flexibility and fun. How is it worn? Is there a desired length or material? There are no correct answers to any of these questions. There is no gatekeeping in the world of neckerchiefs. Put simply, if upon first attempt you squirm at yourself in the mirror — or receive a few comments likening you to a golden retriever — the possibilities of adjustment are almost endless.

However, here are a few handy tips if this eclectic accessory is completely uncharted territory. Contrary to wide belief, I would not consider silk as the superior option. While perhaps the most eccentric material, and certainly gentle on your skin, wear it with caution on warm days. It may allow your skin to breathe a tad better than cotton, but when sweating, sticky silk is a nightmare. I find cotton excels in durability and complements most wardrobes. A cotton neckerchief can transform smart and casual shirts alike, as well as solid colour T-shirts, and elevate almost any quarter zip jumper or lightweight jacket.

Its wear isn’t limited to warmer months, either. You can guarantee several turned heads by sprucing up your skiing fit, for example – as Prince Charles did over many decades visiting the Klosters resort in Switzerland. Sartorially outshining the rest of the royals on the slopes, Charles’s collection gave neckerchiefs for menswear the royal stamp of approval.

A neckerchief should be square in shape and measure roughly 50 x 50cm. You want to fold the fabric diagonally, forming a triangle, and roll until completed. Crucially, make sure to begin rolling at the pointed end of the triangle – this will ensure you have no loose material dangling around your neck. Then adjust the neckerchief around your neck to your preference – I favour a loose fit – and tie a double-knot, and you are ready for take-off.

One controversy that should be addressed is mistaken identity. Often, and incorrectly, the neckerchief is conflated with the cravat. The latter is a form of neckwear more accustomed to the Bond types. Both the day cravat and the more pompous dress – or ascot – cravat are a more sophisticated replacement for the necktie.

Neckerchiefs are a risk. Our own editor Fraser Nelson considered the accessory moments before this year’s summer party. When he whizzed around the Spectator offices, a colleague asked: ‘Where are the closest emergency exits?’ The considerations ended abruptly.

But they can be a risk worth taking. Try one to see if it adds a groove to your trusted shirts – and you may just find that your neckerchief collection is soon fighting for wardrobe space.