Ameer Kotecha

The art of edible flowers

The art of edible flowers
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There are many slightly pretentious ways to make an ordinary plate of food look beautiful. Powders, foams, and gels are all much favoured by Michelin chefs – though they generally don’t improve anything and make it look as if someone has spilt something on your dinner. But edible flowers are one cheffy trick that I do employ when I want to make something look special. Choose carefully and they provide not just a feast for the eyes but flavour and texture too. In the spring and summer months they bring a welcome floral elegance. And if you’re hosting a dinner party and don’t want to rely purely on the silkiness of your homemade pasta or the rise of your soufflé to wow your guests, a few edible flowers will leave them suitably impressed.

You can tell a story on the plate through the flowers you choose – their names, shapes and colours. How about decorating Chinese dim sum with peonies, given their prized symbolism in China where they are known as the ‘king of flowers’? Or celebrating academic success with a cake decorated with carnations, traditionally given for university examinations or graduations? Or even, at the next stag do, serving up martinis made with a syrup of cornflowers (aka ‘bachelor’s buttons’)… The possibilities are endless. So here is a guide to using edible flowers to grace your plate.

If picking your own flowers, ideally do so on a dry morning. Picking them before the sun is strong keeps the colours and flavours more intense. Use the flowers on the day you pick them or put them in the fridge in a plastic bag – for a few days at most. Wash the flowers gently before use. You can use a pastry brush to wipe off any clinging bits.

    Beyond their use for general plate garnishing, you can use edible flowers in the following dishes:

    Salads

      All edible flowers can be used in a salad. Chive and fennel flowers are particularly good. Herbs aplenty are combined with cowslips, primroses and violets in this Elizabethan salad. For any flowers that are past their best, you can use them atop this garden focaccia to accompany.

      Decorating cakes

        On cakes you can use crystallised flowers or fresh. The regal-purple of the pansies used to decorate this chocolate truffle cake would make it an ideal centrepiece to a meal come the Jubilee weekend. Pansies are also used in these cute little lemon tartlets which would be great for a street party. Nadiya Hussain uses yellow and orange marigolds in this celebratory cake. And crystallised flowers are used in this crown-layered pavlova.

        Ice cubes

          One of the easiest ways to show off edible flowers at their colourful best is in ice cubes. You can follow the guide here, though it is really as easy as popping them in the ice tray with the water. Anything pretty will work, though if you want to be clever, you could cucumber-tasting borage flowers in a G&T made with Hendrick’s or in an iced tea. Whatever drink you go for just ensure it is pale in colour to show off the flowers most effectively. If you don’t want to make ice cubes, you can even just pop some flowers in communal bottles of water for the table.

          Jellies and trifles

            Edible flowers beautify an extravagant champagne (or perhaps English sparkling wine?) jelly such as in this Downton-style recipe. And heartsease (viola tricolour) and nasturtiums take the spotlight in this recipe for a fruit and flower trifle.

            Flowers to try

            Daisy – mild flavour. Petals a good garnish for cakes and salads

            Elderflower – primarily for cordials. Though they can even be battered and deep fried

            Nasturtium
            – bright, peppery like watercress. The leaves are fashionable with chefs

            Magnolia – young flowers good for salads

            Gladiolus – mild, lettuce-like taste, good for both savoury dishes and desserts

            Pot marigold – colourful. Petals can be added to oil or butter

            Primrose – good for cakes, whether used fresh or crystallised

            Scented geranium – often citrusy, and good for ice cubes

            Lilac – use atop dips and spreads, e.g. those made from cream cheese or yogurt

            Sweet violet – candied violets often used as a decorative flourish for cakes and biscuits

            Basil flowers – sweet and good with tomatoes or any Mediterranean dishes

            Dill flowers – an aniseed flavour, good with fish

            Chive flowers
            – mild oniony flavour, good in an egg mayonnaise or atop coronation chicken

            Where to buy them

            Grow your own in a perfect world, or get out foraging. Edible flowers can sometimes be a little expensive to buy but a little go a long way. Look out for them in farmer’s shops. Occasionally they even crop up in supermarkets. They are also available at many places online, including the following retailers: Watts Farms, Dales, Mr Fruity, Fine Food Specialist

            It goes without saying not all flowers are edible. Common flowers to avoid include the following (though the list is by no means exhaustive): Daffodil, Bluebell, Rhododendron, Poppy, Foxglove, Oleander, Clematis, Larkspur, Hydrangea and Lily-of-the-Valley. So do your research first before growing or foraging, or buy your edible flowers from a reputable supplier.